Backstage at the spring runways, we learned a lot about concealer and Swarovski crystals. But amongst all the bare faces and bedazzling, we also came across a few standout new hues that we predict will be the year’s biggest trends. Read on for the products and tips to pull off 2014′s hottest makeup shades.
ELECTRIC ORANGE LIPS
Orange lipstick has been on the scene for a while, but now it’s brighter and sexier, with a roller-skating-with-Beyoncé feel. We spotted it at DKNY, Dsquared, Prabal Gurung, and on Rag & Bone’s spring runway, where makeup artist Gucci Westman used neon orange lips to set off the muted white, cream, and pastel clothes. “We needed a pop of color, but orange is cooler and more gritty than red,” she said. Try Maybelline ColorSensational Lipstick in Electric Orange.
COBALT SHADOW AND LINER
The richer the blue, the more skin tones it flatters—so we’re glad makeup artists ditched the Easter-egg hues for a more intense cobalt. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars used a creamy sapphire pencil (the limited-edition Nars Larger Than Life Pencil in Blue) stretched along the lower lashes; at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Dick Page used a simple block of bright blue shadow on the lids. (Try Shiseido Luminizing Trio in Punky Blues.) Page’s secret: Layer on a blue cream shadow first. “It gives the powder something to stick to and gives a little more depth,” he says.
GOLD SHADOW AND HIGHLIGHTER
Gold is the ultimate metallic: It brightens the eyes and gives any skin tone—from ultrapale to superdark—a sunny glow. (Though darker tones should go for a bronzy gold rather than a yellowish one.) Use gold shadow on lids as a base for dark liner, like Pat McGrath did at Dolce & Gabbana (try Dolce & Gabbana The Eyeshadow Smooth Eye Colour Duo in Gold); load up on loose glitter flecks, as seen at Jason Wu; or use a shimmery highlighter (such as CoverGirl Tru Magic The Luminizer Skin Perfector) to draw light to the inner corners and cheekbones.
Petal pink lids are soft, ethereal, and—with just mascara—surprisingly cool. To create the “psychedelic, pre-Raphaelite, romantic” rosy eyes at Anna Sui, makeup artist Pat McGrath used blush as eye shadow, sprinkling it with a touch of glitter. Instead of MacGyvering your blush, try CoverGirl Flamed Out Shadow Pot in Fired-Up Pink (shown here) or Burberry Beauty Sheer Eye shadow in Tea Rose or Burberry Complete Eye Palette in Rose Pink, which makeup artist Wendy Rowe used on models’ lids at the spring Burberry show.
SMOKED LILAC SHADOW
Lilac loses its preciousness and gains major attitude with dusty gray undertones. Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni worked lilac shadow along the creases and just underneath the eyes for a “slightly weird but very beautiful” look at Rochas. (Skip color below the lash line and load up on mascara for a more wide-awake take.) We like shimmery Mary Kay Cream Eye Color in Violet Storm.
NAVY BLUE LINER
It’s more than likely you’ve got a navy pencil stashed somewhere in your makeup bag, but chances are you’ve never worn it like this: makeup artist Tom Pecheux traced graphic cubes at the outer edges of the eyelids at Derek Lam and floating cat eyes at Anthony Vaccarello. Draw your own artful lines with Estée Lauder Stay in Place Pencil in Midnight Blue.
CHOCOLATE BROWN POLISH
Want dark, delicious nails without a hint of goth or emo angst? Two glossy layers of 70-percent-cacao-colored brown polish does the trick. We love Essie Little Brown Dress, an exact match for dark-roast coffee.
Berry-colored blush imparts a deeper flush than delicate pink, which “gives the face freshness,” says makeup artist Charlotte Willer, who used it on models at DKNY. You can use a cream or a powder; the key is to dot it on just the center of the cheeks, blending out to make the apples glow. Try Maybelline Dream Bouncy Blush in Plum Wine.
Too glossy and you might as well put on your finest dominatrix gear; too dry and you’ve got early onset old-lady mouth. The new red lipstick has a velvety-matte finish that’s “almost classic, but more sophisticated and much more modern,” says Pecheux. To create the lips at Altuzurra’s spring show, he used creamy M.A.C. Lip Mix in Crimson and topped it with a mattifying loose red pigment. You could also make life easy and get the look in one quick swipe of M.A.C. Lipstick in Ruby Woo.